RETURN TO LAS AGUILAS

© 2007 by John and Susy Pint

I heard about Las Aguilas over fifteen years ago, when a local citizen of Cuautla, Señor Miguel Mora, told us it was “Mexico’s answer to Stonehenge:” an ancient astronomical observatory and much more. Well, we talked to an astronomer, who told us to visit the place on an “astronomically significant day” and to keep our eyes open at sunrise and sunset...

...So there  we were on the day of the Zenith, setting up our tripods before dawn ...       Camping among the monoliths.That's our tent on the left.

...and our reward was to witness a spectacular scene as the rising sun peeped up between two great standing monoliths and cast a V-shaped shadow on a curious marker rock shaped like a pyramid with a snowball on top. The beam of sunlight racing toward the marker rock.

December 22, 2007. Of course, we wondered how this site has fared with the passage of time, so it was with a bit of trepidation that we headed for Cuautla not long ago. First we went to the Presidencia Municipal to try to find Mr. Mora, chief promoter of Las Aguilas, whom, we discovered, was out of town. This was not surprising, because we were told that most of Cuautla’s citizens live in the USA, where they run some 300 Mexican restaurants, all in the State of Washington. Cuautla itself has been described as “a very rich ghost town.”

“How about a guide to the Piedras, where can we find one?” we asked. “Bueno, if you want a guide, we recommend Michael.” Here is where we learned that, because of the small size of its permanent population, everyone in town knows everyone else on a first-name basis.
Michael turned out to be a good-humored, gangly teenager whose name was actually Manuel. “Why do they call you Michael?” I asked.
Because I like to sing—you know, like Michael Jackson,” he replied. “Do you want me to show you Las Piedras?”

Michael took us to an unlocked gate on the highway and we discovered we could drive along a dirt road in great shape to a wide, flat grassy meadow with nice shade trees: just about the most perfect camping spot you could imagine, with a great view of the famous rock-covered peaks in the near distance. Here we parked and began walking southward along a trail through an idyllic valley,

Along the way you pass a corral. In the old days you would see this hand-carved drinking trough. Today, of course, it has been replaced by a metal one.

After only a half-hour walk, we stepped through a cow-gate into another world...

...Rocks, rocks, everywhere—and with such strange and wonderful shapes! Most of them are smoothly sculpted by nature and few are more than a meter or two taller than a human. Just wandering among them is hypnotic. Time flies by as you feast your eyes on Mother Nature’s ever-changing show. “This is what I can do with rocks,” she seems to say.   "Michael Jackson" Manuel indicates one of the rock-covered hilltops.

I was happy to find the tall monoliths the same as they were fifteen years ago, completely free of graffiti or damage. Michael told us he had witnessed an amazing scene there on March 21, the day of the equinox. “The sun rose exactly between the monoliths and a narrow strip of light appeared on the ground, illuminating the marker rock. This strip of light only appeared on the 21st, not the day before nor the day after.” Unfortunately, the enthusiasm of the people of Cuautla is not shared by experts in the know. Archeologist Phil Weigand tells me he has visited Las Aguilas, agrees it is an impressive place, but says all the evidence indicates that these picturesque rocks are completely natural and in no way modified for astronomical use.

It took us only a few minutes to walk to the hilltop supposedly dedicated to Magic. This area is virtually covered with a thick forest of standing stones. Hidden among them is a so-called cave, actually just an open space under a fallen monolith. Naturally, there are the usual stories about treasure hidden there. Good luck if you think you’ll find it!

It was getting late, but we still had time to take a look at the hill that the local people say was dedicated to religious ceremonies. Here we found a long, oval-shaped mound which looked like it ought to be archeologically important. This is the highest spot in the area, with a truly magnificent lookout point. It’s also the only place we saw petroglyphs, but these engravings were so old and faint that we could hardly make them out.

If you want to visit a really interesting, but little-known place, without expending too much energy, I suggest you head for Las Aguilas. The hills are only 160 meters above the valley and you should easily reach them in only half an hour after stepping out of your car.

We arrived at our campsite and were so inspired by the beautiful view of the hills covered with strangely shaped rocks, that we took little notice of the cows and bulls grazing all around us. But that night we discovered that these creatures apparently never sleep. Ominous footsteps and heavy breathing woke us at midnight and neither flashlights nor shouting could keep the visitors away from our fragile tent...

...The thought of what it would be like if one of those huge hooves suffered a misstep was unnerving. We ended up abandoning ship and seeking refuge in our truck, which, for the duration of the night was shaken by the bulls' "cornazos" ("horny collisions") as they relentlessly attempted to get at the garbage we had unwisely stowed beneath our vehicle... One of our night visitors, looking completely innocent the next morning.

How to get there.

From Guadalajara, take Highway 80 southwest towards Barra de Navidad. If you’re near Lake Chapala, you get to this same highway by driving northwest from Jocotepec. After passing Juchitlán you'll come to several small lakes. Watch for a sign indicating the turnoff to San Clemente. Turn Right, drive northwest through San Clemente and Ayutla until you reach the wide turnoff to Cuautla (signposted). Turn right and drive into town if you are looking for Michael the guide. Otherwise continue straight past the turnoff and look for the first gate on your left, at 13 Q 563585 2233618, if you have a GPS. The parking spot is 457 meters southeast of here, at 13 Q 563834 2233221. Now you start walking along a trail heading south. You’ll pass a corral with a drinking trough and after about 750 meters you’ll come to a lagoon. On the far side of it, you pass through twin cow gates (at 13 Q 564016 2232525) and follow the path uphill to the top. Time from the Guadalajara Periférico to Cuautla: about two and one half hours. You’ll probably get there quicker if you’re coming from Chapala.

Aliens William Pint (foreground) and Felicia Dale