“Fortunately, alternatives to mass-produced guidebooks can still be found from smaller presses and independent, self-published authors. Favorites from my own library include "Outdoors In Western Mexico" by John and Susy Pint.” — Carl Franz, author of The People's Guide to Mexico

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This user-friendly book contains details of forty scenic places to camp, hike or picnic within a few hours of Guadalajara and Lake Chapala. Short descriptions include trail landmarks and background information. A very hard to find book! Ten color photos; dozens of original pen and ink illustrations, including sketch maps. —Sombrero Books, Canada

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Outdoors in Western Mexico is available from:

SANDI BOOKSTORE, Guadalajara, Mexico,  Tepeyac #718,  Colonia Chapalita, Guadalajara, Jalisco. Tel: (33) 3121-0863, (33) 3121-4210 Fax: (33) 3647-4600. www.sandibooks.com .

SOMBRERO BOOKS, Box 4, Ladysmith, BC V9G 1A1, Canada
Tel/Fax: (250) 245-0772   www.sombrerobooks.com 

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SAMPLE CHAPTER

El Cerro de Amatitán (Chapter two)

Invigorating climb, splendid vistas, an elusive virgin

       You would think that Amatitán's claim to fame would be the fact that it's home to not one but two fine tequila distilleries. However, if you ask the typical local citizens what it is they are most proud of, they won't even mention anything as mundane as alcohol. This is because the people of Amatitán have a secret.
It was one my friends and I discovered when we turned off the highway into the town and wound our way past a crowded market. As we emerged from the other side of the pueblo we suddenly saw our goal looming above us, the picturesque peak of El Cerro de Amatitán.
     We stopped in a shop and asked the owner how we could find our way to the top of that beautiful mountain. "Well, actually I've never been up there myself" she began, when she was interrupted by a client of hers who had been listening to our conversation while enjoying a cold refresco.
     "I'll take you to where the trail begins, if you like. You've come to see our Virgen, ¿verdad?" We hadn't, but I asked him if the Virgen was in a chapel at the top.

The supernatural portrait

      "No senor. It's all very mysterious. You see, many years ago we placed an enormous cross at the very top of our Cerro and in the course of time, Our Lady decided to reward us by imprinting her image on the cliffside. Strangely enough, this image was discovered only months ago and now -well, now we see people like you arriving from the ends of the earth!"

Wise guys from afar

     He looked from one of us to another, his eyes filled with emotion. My companions that day were a Brazilian named Claudio, a Lebanese-Mexican named Munir and a dark-skinned Nicaraguan named EIeanor. We were just friends out for a Sunday hike, but couldn't have looked more like the Three Kings (cleverly disguised as the Four Foreigners) if we had planned it.
     "Of course," continued our informant, "only the virtuous can see the image of the Virgen, but as for you..."

Visions of loveliness

     As for me, I had no problem seeing the busy crowd of pilgrims picnicking just beyond the trailhead (where our generous guide left us) and I could even make out the flattish spot where the image is supposed to be located. Beyond that, I will disclose no more, lest my virtue be called into question.
     I will, however, reveal that all of us did manage to envision a succession of beautiful views from various look-out points as made our way up the occasionally steep trail. The lesser peaks of this cluster of hills have a Golden Wheat Field radiance in the dry season and are especially pretty in the late afternoon sun.

Six thousand feet up

     After passing alongside deep canyons, over rocky outcrops and through shady groves of oak trees, we finally climbed our way over and around some giant boulders. right up to the large cross. We were at the top at last, 1880 meters (6,267 feet) above sea level, after an hour and a half of rather leisurely hiking. Though it was a Sunday, we had seen no more than six people after passing the image of the Virgen. From the peak you see a wide panorama of blue-grey agaves: millions of gallons of tequila in the making. You can even make out the ubiquitous Rio Santiago frothing its way at the bottom of the deep Barranca de Santa Rosa.

Even a child can do it

     How easy is this climb? We were told that grandmas and kids from Amatitán do it all the time. So if you're capable of walking uphill for a couple hours, you've got it in the bag. If not, you can always join the pilgrims at the bottom for cold beer, pollo rostizado and a few mellow hours of Virgen watching.

How to get there

Take highway 15 (Tequila-Tepic-Nogales) west 38 kms (23.6 miles) as far as Amatitan (30 minutes past the Periferico). As you enter the town, you'll pass a cemetery on your right immediately followed by a right turn to the Herradura and Regional distilleries. Next, you'll see a sign marking the right-hand turnoff to Santa Rosa, but go past it under the footbridge that crosses the highway and immediately turn left onto Juan Jose Flores Street. After two blocks, take a left onto Hidalgo. Having passed the market, turn right on Abasolo and foIlow this until it stops before an imposing arch (private property).     
     Park near the arch and -now on foot- turn left and immediately right onto a dirt road which will take you into and out of a small, cemented-over arroyo. Now there'll be a stone fence on your right. Continue till you see a big locked iron gate in that stone wall. This comes after a five minute walk from the arch. Now you have two choices: a) crawl through the gate or b) climb around it. Believe it or not, this is the route followed by the locals to get to the mountain! By the way, now you can see the cross up at the top. That's where you are headed.
      Walk across the field to the first shade tree you come to (a big one) and follow the trail south for a few minutes until you go through another stone wall. Now bear left and play See the Virgin as you hike upwards. The walk to the top should take less than two hours if you are in somewhat decent shape. Afterwards, you may enjoy a visit to Herradura distillery, open Mon-Thur, 9:00-2:00 and 4:00-5:00 as well as Saturdays 9:00-12:00. Tel: (013) 745-0011. Driving time from the Periferico to the parking spot: about 45 minutes.

     First published in the Guadalajara Reporter, Mexico's only English-language newspaper. To catch up with John and Susy Pint's more recent excursions, see the Nearby Guadalajara section of the paper at  http://www.guadalajarareporter.com/